Brows—The Finishing Touch

Brows—The Finishing Touch

Get the shape right, of course, and you’re halfway there – your eyes will look groomed, but (unless you’re blessed with naturally dark brows,) they won’t necessarily have enough impact. Many of us need pencil – or better yet, powder – to achieve that.
Eliza Petrescu explains: "Pencil and powder selection should be determined by hair and skin color. Go one shade darker if hair is light: go one shade lighter if hair is dark." (Even if hair is dark brown, she advises, avoid black.)

The only way to test brow color when makeup shopping is on the brow itself. Either shop bare-browed or remove your color at the counter. (A hand mirror is useful, once again, for judging the color of daylight. If a shade looks natural there, it’ll look natural everywhere.)

What you’re really looking for are mousy brown tones of pencil or powder –and check to make sure there isn’t a hint of red in the pencil/powder, even if you’re a redhead. Because brows aren’t naturally one color, you might opt for 2 very slightly different shades. Brow powders are specially designed for use on this area, and have a slightly waxier texture- but if you can’t get the right shade, use powder eyeshadow. (M.A.C and Bobbi Brown offer brow-friendly shadow colors.)

Before coloring brows, brush them upwards to make sure they’re even – and then brush out horizontally. (This is something we skip when we’re in a hurry-which is most of the time-but could be a must if yours are unruly.)

Stephen Glass recommends Kanebo’s eyebrow pencil in Muted Brown, "a really natural-looking taupe which works on almost all brows". Another rather miraculous product – recommended by Valentine Gotti, aka the "Makeup Doctor"- is Brenda Christian brow Shaper Pencil, which adjusts to the color of every brow (from blonde to brunette) as if by magic.

We’ll be frank: we feel that of the brow products available, powder gives the most natural look, but if you still prefer pencil, start at the inner corner and works outwards using light, feathery strokes. You’re trying to color the hairs – although when it comes to "filling in" gaps, you can draw directly onto skin.

When using powder, you need a brush specifically designed for brows-which is stiff and angled. Tap the handle on a hard surface (or the back of your hand) to remove excess, then start at the thickest part of the brow and work outwards using feathery, light strokes. Again, you’re trying to get color onto the hairs, not the skin—and be sure that the outer corner ends in a very fine point.

For maximum staying power, Vincent Longo likes to use pencil followed by powder shadow to "fix" the pencil. This is fine for special occasions, but may be too time-consuming on an everyday basis.

There is an increasing range of colored "brow mascaras" on the market but in our opinion, they’re a nightmare to use in a hurry and don’t look natural- brows can appear stiff. In the same way, many experts recommend using brow gel or hairspray to fix brows in place, but, once again—unless your brows are constantly trying to escape – we say skip this, except for the outermost ends if necessary.

If you have the time, sweep brows through with a (clean) mascara wand after you’ve applied your brow color – either one you’ve bought, or one you’ve adapted for the task by first dunking it in eye-makeup remover, then washing it in gentle soap—to give your brows a tended look.
Note: Having brows tattooed with semi-permanent makeup may seem like the ultimate time-saving beauty gesture, but beware: we’ve seen some horrendous results in which all you notice are the brows, not the woman they belong to. (Remember, too, that brows fade naturally as we age—and what works with your hair color now may not work when you’ve gone grey/lighter/darker, in a few year’s time.) If you’re considering having semi-permanent makeup done, ask to see – in person- several people who’ve been treated by the person you’re considering so that you can gauge the results with your own eyes. Do not be fooled by photos, which sometimes show another therapist’s work, or are promotional shots taken by the company that supplies the tattooing equipment. There is also theoretical risk of contracting HIV or hepatitis C if an unsterilized needle is used. Meanwhile, never have brows or lashes dyed with hair dye: in many countries it’s even illegal.
Total Beauty by Sarah Stacey & Josephine Fairley