Eliza
Petrescu explains: "Pencil and powder selection should be determined by
hair and skin color. Go one shade darker if hair is light: go one shade lighter
if hair is dark." (Even if hair is dark brown, she advises, avoid black.)
The
only way to test brow color when makeup shopping is on the brow itself. Either
shop bare-browed or remove your color at the counter. (A hand mirror is useful,
once again, for judging the color of daylight. If a shade looks natural there,
it’ll look natural everywhere.)
What
you’re really looking for are mousy brown tones of pencil or powder –and check
to make sure there isn’t a hint of red in the pencil/powder, even if you’re a
redhead. Because brows aren’t naturally one color, you might opt for 2 very
slightly different shades. Brow powders are specially designed for use on this
area, and have a slightly waxier texture- but if you can’t get the right shade,
use powder eye shadow. (M.A.C and Bobbi Brown offer brow-friendly shadow
colors.)
Before
coloring brows, brush them upwards to make sure they’re even – and then brush
out horizontally. (This is something we skip when we’re in a hurry-which is
most of the time-but could be a must if yours are unruly.)
Stephen
Glass recommends Kanebo’s eyebrow pencil in Muted Brown, "a really
natural-looking taupe which works on almost all brows". Another rather
miraculous product – recommended by Valentine Gotti, aka the "Makeup
Doctor"- is Brenda Christian brow Shaper Pencil, which adjusts to the color
of every brow (from blonde to brunette) as if by magic.
We’ll
be frank: we feel that of the brow products available, powder gives the most
natural look, but if you still prefer pencil, start at the inner corner and
works outwards using light, feathery strokes. You’re trying to color the hairs
– although when it comes to "filling in" gaps, you can draw directly
onto skin.
When
using powder, you need a brush specifically designed for brows-which is stiff
and angled. Tap the handle on a hard surface (or the back of your hand) to
remove excess, then start at the thickest part of the brow and work outwards
using feathery, light strokes. Again, you’re trying to get color onto the
hairs, not the skin—and be sure that the outer corner ends in a very fine
point.
For
maximum staying power, Vincent Longo likes to use pencil followed by powder
shadow to "fix" the pencil. This is fine for special occasions, but
may be too time-consuming on an everyday basis.
There
is an increasing range of colored "brow mascaras" on the market but
in our opinion, they’re a nightmare to use in a hurry and don’t look natural-
brows can appear stiff. In the same way, many experts recommend using brow gel
or hairspray to fix brows in place, but, once again—unless your brows are
constantly trying to escape – we say skip this, except for the outermost ends
if necessary.
If
you have the time, sweep brows through with a (clean) mascara wand after you’ve
applied your brow color – either one you’ve bought, or one you’ve adapted for
the task by first dunking it in eye-makeup remover, then washing it in gentle
soap—to give your brows a tended look.
Note:
Having brows tattooed with semi-permanent makeup may seem like the ultimate
time-saving beauty gesture, but beware: we’ve seen some horrendous results in
which all you notice are the brows, not the woman they belong to. (Remember,
too, that brows fade naturally as we age—and what works with your hair color
now may not work when you’ve gone grey/lighter/darker, in a few year’s time.)
If you’re considering having semi-permanent makeup done, ask to see – in
person- several people who’ve been treated by the person you’re considering so
that you can gauge the results with your own eyes. Do not be fooled by photos,
which sometimes show another therapist’s work, or are promotional shots taken
by the company that supplies the tattooing equipment. There is also theoretical
risk of contracting HIV or hepatitis C if an unsterilized needle is used.
Meanwhile, never have brows or lashes dyed with hair dye: in many countries
it’s even illegal.
Total
Beauty by Sarah Stacey & Josephine Fairley
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